Sculpture to me is as much a visual pleasure as is it is a tactile experience.
As a jewelry designer, you must find a way to accentuate the natural elegance of what are arguably the most beautiful materials found on earth. The work should have an eternal quality, but one must also aspire to imbue the pieces with another essence that, for me, is much more consequential: I want my work to be ethereal.
It is ironic perhaps, that stone and metal pried from the ear th could be ethereal but jewelry has long been associated with the stars. I think that fine jewelry should always aspire to rival the awe we experience when we turn our eyes upward. I don’t simply want these pieces to adorn, or to stand alone as beautiful objects. I want my designs to evoke their connection to space—its vastness, its majesty and its superlative form.
The very process and purpose of designing jewelry—of refining and reinventing one’s signature—is for me, to eventually locate this fine and illusory quality. This is how I would like everyone to feel when he or she sees these designs. My goal is to spin these precious materials into something that is much more than an extravagant accessory.
Jewelry is my medium and to make it, by nature, is to be mindful of its techniques and the value of such fine materials. But this is secondary. The feeling I want to impart is one of radiance, in every sense: That of light, of emotion, of energy and, of course, that of beauty.
Ana Khouri spent her formative years between her native Brazil and the United States. Ana first studied Fine Arts specializing in sculpture in São Paulo, at the Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado. It was in art school that she first began to think critically about sculpture and jewelry, more precisely about the ways that she could make pieces that spoke directly to the body.
In New York, she attained degrees at GIA (the Gemological Institute of America) and Parsons, before traveling to London to study at Central Saint Martins. Her background and love of sculpture would now play heavily in her favor, allowing her a richer understanding of the creative possibilities that weren’t being explored in jewelry design.
As a designer she is unhinged from any technical restraints, and as an artist she if forever demanding that materials bend to her creative vision. For Khouri, designing jewelry is about the myriad ways that a piece can take shape on the wearer, and the balance the work creates with the body.
Another Khouri tenet is an insistence on bringing High jewelry into the twenty-first century. This attitude has formed a steady drumbeat under her ascent over the last few years. Her New York based namesake line which she launched in 2013 - after making her first piece in 2002 - has grown steadily ever since drawing the allegiance of a long list of likeminded women and, in the process, brought jewelry design a giant leap forward.
Ana’s signature setting design is inspired by her search for Purity. Featuring one continuous line, no base, leaving only what is most essential - the purity of the materials used. Toeing the line between sculpture and jewelry, her designs are intended to be organic extensions of the body, with fluidity and softness. Made of 18K Fair Trade Gold and ethically sources gemstones.